Now that your skin is so fresh and so clean clean it's time to discuss exfoliation. Chances are, you've probably heard of a scrub. You might have even heard of microdermabrasion and chemical peels. There's a ton of different kinds of exfoliants out there, from the meek & barely noticeable to the week (or even a month) of down-time while you hide in your house like a burn victim. Did that scare you a little? It's okay. Forewarned is forearmed. But don't let me scare you too much, because exfoliation is vitally important.
There is a bright, healthy and vibrant layer of skin just waiting to come out and play. It's right under that layer of dead skin cells that makes up the surface of your skin. How do you get to it, you ask? Exfoliation. There are a few different ways to exfoliate, the two main categories are mechanical and chemical. Mechanical involves rubbing off dead skin cells with an abrasive e.g. washcloth, scrub, gommage, microdermabrasion. Chemical exfoliation involves alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, trichloroacetic acid, enzymes, and assorted un-categorizable stuff.
Different forms of exfoliation have different effects, but basically exfoliating removes dead skin cells. Exfoliating can reduce acne and clogged pores, smooth skin's texture, reduce scarring and wrinkles, lighten freckles and pigmentation, and prep dry skin for deeper moisturizing. Now that you're all pumped and ready to exfoliate, it's time to delve into the hows of exfoliation.
With a scrub, always apply to damp skin and massage in with wet fingertips. The objective is to use the same amount of pressure in every area of your face (except the eyes & neck which need much lighter pressure) so you get an even exfoliation. Also important: spend an equal amount of time massaging in to every area, and it's easiest to remove a scrub in the shower with plenty of running water.
A gommage is sort of a hybrid of a hydrating peel off mask and a scrub. Apply it, let it dry, then brush off gently with a sweeping motion. Gommage exfoliants generally work best for delicate, dehydrated skin types. Sweeping off the particles can get a little messy, do it over the sink or in the shower before you turn the water on.
Enzyme exfoliants usually come in mask form or in concentrated peel form, and it's best to follow the company's directions so you can get the most out of your enzyme experience. If you want a DIY enzyme peel, you can get a papaya and give it a whirl in the blender or food processor, then slather it on for a few minutes. Most enzymes will work better if you swipe your skin with a weak baking soda solution (to neutralizes skin's pH) beforehand.
Acids come in a huge array of formulas, my favorites being the liquid/toner and the straight up peel which is usually a gel or liquid (a peel will be a higher percentage than the liquid or toner). You can also get acids in serum, wipe, cream, or cleanser format. Since acids can be found in basically any type of cosmetic formulation, I will narrow down my "how to" advice to just the straight up peel. My best advice is to find an intelligent & experienced esthetician to do your peels. Kind of like going to a hairstylist to get your hair colored, it usually turns out much better than doing it yourself. That said, how you care for your skin after a peel is almost just as important as the peel itself.
After a peel: Avoid sun exposure, sweating or hot weather, prescription retinoids (Differin, Renova, Retin-A, Tazorac) or harsh products on the skin for the next 48-72 hours. Wear a good (see my post) sunscreen to protect against UVA rays so you can prevent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Use plenty of soothing balm, and if the skin starts to flake avoid the temptation to scrub it off, just use plenty of moisturizer.
Enzyme exfoliants usually come in mask form or in concentrated peel form, and it's best to follow the company's directions so you can get the most out of your enzyme experience. If you want a DIY enzyme peel, you can get a papaya and give it a whirl in the blender or food processor, then slather it on for a few minutes. Most enzymes will work better if you swipe your skin with a weak baking soda solution (to neutralizes skin's pH) beforehand.
Acids come in a huge array of formulas, my favorites being the liquid/toner and the straight up peel which is usually a gel or liquid (a peel will be a higher percentage than the liquid or toner). You can also get acids in serum, wipe, cream, or cleanser format. Since acids can be found in basically any type of cosmetic formulation, I will narrow down my "how to" advice to just the straight up peel. My best advice is to find an intelligent & experienced esthetician to do your peels. Kind of like going to a hairstylist to get your hair colored, it usually turns out much better than doing it yourself. That said, how you care for your skin after a peel is almost just as important as the peel itself.
After a peel: Avoid sun exposure, sweating or hot weather, prescription retinoids (Differin, Renova, Retin-A, Tazorac) or harsh products on the skin for the next 48-72 hours. Wear a good (see my post) sunscreen to protect against UVA rays so you can prevent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Use plenty of soothing balm, and if the skin starts to flake avoid the temptation to scrub it off, just use plenty of moisturizer.
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