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Summer summer summertime, time to sit back and unwind.

The sun is shining, the grill is hot, the mosquitos are biting, and you're finally wearing shorts (even though your legs are as white as the freshly driven snow). It's time to go outside and bask in the glorious sunshine. But not too much. Here's how to "sun" responsibly:

1. Wear sunscreen. I bet you saw that one coming, didn't you? Keep it handy for re-application, because a layer of sunscreen doesn't last forever. You'll want to reapply every few hours (more often if you're fair skinned). 

Oily skin: SkinCeuticals Sheer Physical SPF 50

Dry skin: La Roche Posay Anthelios 40 

Acne prone skin: Fallene Face Cotz SPF 40

Super sensitive skin: Blue Lizard Sensitive SPF 30+

Check out this website, it rates sunscreen in a very helpful way, sorting by toxicity and level of UV protection.

2. Drink plenty of water. This may sound basic, but somehow water is the last thing most people want to drink on a nice hot day. Drink the damn water, people. It's important. Not only for proper functioning of your internal organs, but also because it makes your skin look all smooth & tight.

3. Ignore the old school talk about getting sun before 11 and after 3. It's best to get sun in the middle of the day, the longer wavelengths of the morning & afternoon promote malignant melanoma. That said, it's hotter in the middle of the day so limit your overall exposure time, and DON'T YOU DARE FORGET YOUR SPF.

4. Wear sunglasses. Protecting your eyes from the sun is absolutely essential. Make sure your sunglasses have UV protection, otherwise they can do more harm than good.

5. Get a spray tan. If you want to be tan, this is the best way to do it without damaging your skin. I recommend Fantasy Tan, which is what we use at the spa I work at. The color is very natural and the tan lasts longer than other brands. Don't do tanning beds, they only expose you to the most damaging of the UV rays without any of the benefits of real sun exposure. If you want a good bronzer for the face, try Dr. Hauschka Translucent Bronze Concentrate. You can mix it with your moisturizer or apply it to areas like cheekbones, nose, temples, above brows, and chin.

www.resurfaceskin.com

Got breakouts? Developing an effective daily regimen for acne

I was going to continue my focus on inflammation, but acne is a complex condition and it deserves a multi-faceted plan of attack. As I said in my last post, there are different grades of acne, different grades will respond to different products and types of treatment. I'm going to throw some recommendations out there and explain how they work, and let you choose. Some experimentation may be required to find the products that give the best results for your skin, but I've taken out most of the guesswork. I'm happy to answer questions, if you have any
                                                             
Cleansers:

SkinCeuticals Clarifying Cleanser- This cleanser exfoliates, preventing buildup of dead skin cells and controlling clogged pores. I find that it works best on blackheads and small, non-inflamed bumps (that's a technical term, right?).

Ilike Grapeseed Cleansing Milk- A milky, oil-based cleanser to help dissolve oil & makeup, with active ingredients that decrease inflammation & redness.

Osea Ocean Cleanser- Truly my favorite cleanser EVER. It gets off every trace of oil & makeup, and leaves skin super soft and comfortable. A great daily cleanser for all acne situations.

SkinScript Glycolic Cleanser- This is a turbocharged AHA cleanser, at 17% glycolic acid it's more like a peel than a cleanser. Best for grades 3 & 4. You'll need a separate makeup remover because this sucker is way too strong to use around the eyes. I'd suggest alternating this cleanser with the Ilike Grapeseed or Osea Ocean Cleanser, so as not to over-exfoliate. It's always important to give your skin time to rest & rebuild itself.

Epicuren Medicated Acne Cleanser- Once again, Epicuren created a product that I absolutely adore. One of my all time favorites for acne, it's gentle but effective. Mildly exfoliating, with the silkiest texture.


Toners:

True Clarifying Tonic- This sometimes doubles as my night time cleanser when I'm feeling particularly lazy. It's great for swiping off sweat ^& grime after the gym if you don't have time for a shower right away. It contains calming ingredients and tea tree to prevent bacteria.

Avene Thermal Spring Water Spray- For those of you that just don't "get" toner, this is your thing. A super easy spray that calms & heals the skin. Just spray it on and you're good to go.

GM Collin Deep Cleansing Solution- Sort of a hybrid between a cleanser & a toner. This contains an active ingredient that is similar to Benzoyl Peroxide (which is very effective) without being harmful. Put it on after cleansing, leave it on for a minute & rinse.

                     
Leave on treatments:

True Purifying Therapeutic Mask- Put a thick layer of this mask on the spot at night before bed and you will wake up with a much smaller, more manageable pimple.

Calendula CO2- I like to put this on all over my face at night to calm inflammation. It is BRIGHT orange so just use a tiny bit, and don't use your best sheets... Cause they will get stained. Usually I'll put a thin layer on, then use a cool compress to remove the excess. If your breakouts are grade 3 or 4, throbbing & inflamed, this is the best thing ever. 

Nelson's Acne Gel- A tiny bit of this on the spot during the day= perfect treatment for inflamed acne to keep it under control. Also nice around the jawline as a zone-treatment for hormonal acne.

Diacneal- And now enter the big guns. This is the best, strongest over-the-counter acne treatment I've ever tried. It's no joke. Very strong retinaldehyde & AHA treatment. A little goes a long way. Use it at night, 4-6 nights per week all over to treat stubborn grade 3 & 4 acne.

Tazorac (prescription, discuss with your dermatologist before using)- Now here's the thing about Tazorac: be prepared to peel like a molting snake. Yes. For weeks. Use it at night only, always slather on a rich moisturizer first and apply a little Tazorac on top (avoid eyes & lips), and skip a night or two a week to give your skin breathing time. During your molting period you'll want to carry a tube of moisturizer with you and apply it several times per day. You'll need this stuff under your moisturizer in the day time, too.


IS Clinical Pro Heal Advance + Serum- Use this every morning under your moisturizer to help prevent inflammation and breakouts, and treat acne scarring. This serum is god damn amazing.


Moisture & SPF:

Osea Atmosphere Protection Cream- My favorite all-around moisturizer of all time. Super light, super gentle, just awesome.

SkinCeuticals Sheer Physical UV Defense SPF 50- A mineral-based light fluid sunscreen. 

Somme Double Defense- A quick-absorbing, nice light textured combo moisturizer + SPF.

Other good stuff:

Osea Red Algae Mask- Use it a few times a week to decongest & detoxify clogged pores and breakout prone skin.

Astara Golden Flame Mask- Use it overnight once a week to calm & soothe irritated and inflamed skin. It's very hydrating and healing.

Hepar Sulphuris Calcareum- Homeopathy works. This stuff is a total godsend for inflammatory acne conditions. Just take a few sugar pellets under your tongue, sit back and watch the magic happen.

Salicylic Acid: The life and times of a Beta Hydroxy Acid

Okay, so it's not a steamy novel starring Salicylic Acid. It's just a little homage to this little wunderkind of an exfoliant. The only hydroxy acid that is FDA approved as an acne treatment, salicylic acid is pretty amazing. It's the most ubiquitous over-the-counter acne treatment on the shelves aside from benzoyl peroxide. Salicylic acid is fat soluble, unlike the AHAs we discussed in the last post (which are water soluble). As you might imagine, this means salicylic acid works amazingly well for clogged pores (which are clogged with oil). If you're wondering why you might use this BHA instead of one of the AHAs, I think it works best for ingrown hairs, acne maintenance treatment, enlarged pores, and oily skin with a rough texture.


If you want to use it as an ingrown hair treatment try Stridex Maximum Strength pads or PFB Vanish which is my favey favorite thing of all time- my personal cure for brazilian waxing woes- in a super easy roll on. For acne maintenance I think Paula's Choice 2% BHA liquid works best- applied at night. If you want a BHA cleanser I adore the DDF Blemish Foaming Cleanser: it works without overdrying.

Decoding Alpha Hydroxy Acids

Ah, the wonders of Alpha Hydroxy Acids. AHAs can smooth deep wrinkles, refine pore size, lighten pigmentation, and help clear up acne & scarring. There are several AHAs: Malic from apples, Lactic from milk, Tartaric from grape wine, Mandelic from almonds, and Glycolic from sugar cane. 

In the world of AHAs, glycolic rules. The tiny molecule size of glycolic acid compared to the rest of the AHAs means that it is the strongest performer. Glycolic is the best AHA for anti-aging, refining pore size, and treating acne. The rest of the AHAs have different personalities and strong points. Lactic acid is my favorite for lightening pigmentation and hydrating. Malic and Tartaric acids are clarifying and refining. They are usually found in combination with other acids, but as a supporting actor instead of a leading role. Mandelic acid is perfect for sensitivity, redness, inflamed acne, and rosacea. Citric acid is usually not found in facial exfoliation products, but occasionally in pedicure products for callused skin.

AHAs for home use generally range from about 5-15% concentration, and they can be found in any formula, from cleanser to night cream. No matter what AHA format you use be sure to take a few days off per week from exfoliating to allow your skin to rebuild and recover. I can't stress enough how important the body's natural healing process is. With any AHA product that is left on the skin, you'll need to use it at night because it can cause sun sensitivity and pigmentation. Be sure to use a good SPF during the day.

Things you can expect when you start using AHAs: an intense stinging sensation is perfectly normal until your skin adjusts, temporary redness after application, a purging breakout for a week to a few weeks is normal for clogged or acne prone skin (followed by healthy, clear skin). You may want to work your way up, starting with alternating nights or with a AHA cleanser before you start using a leave-on AHA product.

Let's delve into glycolic products first, because they give the best results overall. I love using a glycolic cleanser a few times a week to exfoliate and control clogged pores. If you have dry/normal skin the best one is M.D. Forte Facial Cleanser I. If you have oily/acne prone skin get Serious Skin Care Glycolic Cleanser. Another easy way to incorporate glycolic into your regimen is with a liquid- just put a little on a cotton round and apply at night before your moisturizer. Try Epicuren Glycolic Polymer Solution 10%, jt's fantastic for clearing up stubborn acne (not cystic, I'll cover cystic acne treatment in another installment). 

Some of my overall favorites:

M2 Skin Care HP Skin Refinish 12% or Epicuren Glycolic Polymer 10% Liquid for acne

Cosmedix Defy or G.M. Collin Derm Renewal Cream for wrinkles & sun damage

Abra Alpha Enzyme Peel or Naturopathica Environmental Defense Mask as a weekly exfoliating treatment mask

Dermaquest Rejuvaderm or Jan Marini Bioglycolic Lightening Gel for pigmentation or acne scarrring (red or brown marks)

A series of AHA peels (or one really strong one) can give truly dramatic results, but I strongly suggest seeing an experienced esthetician for your peels instead of buying something off the internet and attempting it yourself.