Aging + Inflammation

As an esthetician, I've always known that when a client comes in with rosacea or seriously inflamed skin and wants to focus on anti-aging, the best way to target signs of aging is to target the inflammation. First of all, the inflammation can't be ignored. No amount of anti-aging peptides or acids or retinoids provide any kind of results on inflamed skin until the inflammation is resolved. Inflamed skin can't tolerate any active ingredients that are too strong, too stimulating, or too exfoliating. I treat (and respect) the inflammation first and foremost in the treatment room, and I always recommend products that are specifically appropriate for sensitive skin for home care.

Inflammation, according to an article I recently read,  is the body's response to a perceived threat. It throws the body into attack mode, as if it were trying to protect against, say, a bacterial infection... Even if the culprit is, say,  cigarette smoke or sunlight (UV rays). The body can't win the fight because it's fighting against a trigger which doesn't fight fair (it doesn't behave like an infection, it's usual sparring buddy).

When the inflammatory response has begun, for whatever reason, it doesn't stop. Inflammation is cyclical and self perpetuating, and this "attack mode" is indiscriminate, causing serious tissue damage. Inflammation decreases ATP which is the main energy source of your cells, so your cells don't work as well or as quickly. As it's decreasing the energy source of your cells, it's increasing oxidative stress which causes aging. If we can control inflammation in the skin,  we can help control signs of aging.

Here's what you can do:

Oral antioxidant supplements are very helpful, but rarely are effective for the skin. Still, I want everyone to take an antioxidant supplement regularly. Two of the great ways to incorporate antioxidants into your diet are to drink more green tea, and to eat more turmeric (an ingredient of traditional yellow curry). If you prefer a tablet or capsule, try Garden of Life Vitamin Code Raw Antioxidants which is a great multivitamin with antioxidants.

When you're trying to affect change on the skin, there really is no better way than to use potent products topically. With inflamed skin, it's best policy to use products designed to be used on sensitive skin and not try to go for the "strongest thing out there". You'll have better results if you keep in mind that we're trying to calm the skin, not overload it. Hylunia Healing and Restoring Cream is specifically for very sensitive skin, used with iS Clinical Pro Heal Serum Advance + you can effectively treat aging and inflammation in one go, without overstimulating the skin.

Come see me at re:surface skin for a re:covery facial to help calm inflammation and heal tissue damage from inflammation. You can pick up the Hylunia cream and the iS Clinical serum while you're here!
www.resurfaceskin.com

Raindrops on roses and whiskers on kittens...

I thought I'd post a few of my favorite things. Every time I think of those words I hear Julie Andrews singing that song and picture her twirling around on top of an alp. So anyone that knows me might be thinking "What does cheese have to do with skin care?" but don't worry I won't wax poetic over the wonders of cheese... This is a skin blog for goodness sake. No, these favorites are all skin-related, I promise I'll stay on topic.

Sunscreen. I have so many clients ask me "Do you wear sunscreen every day?". Honestly, people! This kind of talk boggles the mind. Of course I wear sunscreen every day. Sun is the main cause of aging, not to mention skin cancer. Skin cancer is just like any other cancer... I hate to break it to you, but it can be deadly.

The world of sunscreen can be a very confusing place.
There are 2 types of sun protection: physical and chemical. Physical sun blocks come from zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. These work by providing a physical barrier against UV rays, like a mirror they reflect the sun's rays (block). Chemical sunscreens absorb UV rays before they reach the skin (screen).

There are pros and cons to either type of sunscreen, physical blocks tend to be thick and heavy, with a whitish cast on the skin. Chemical blocks tend to smell funky, have an sticky or oily feel, and sorting out which ingredients work can be seriously frustrating. So here are a few of my favorite sunscreens for your enjoyment.

Epicuren Discovery Zinc Oxide SPF 20
The Epicuren is my absolute favorite of all time, hands down. I use it as my day cream in humid climates or during the summer, otherwise I apply a day cream first and apply the Epicuren on top. The texture is very light, the formula is not sticky or greasy and it smells very faintly like rose. This is a strictly physical sunblock.

SkinCeuticals Daily Sun Defense SPF 20
Another great one, blending chemical & physical to provide a great level of UVA protection (essential for preventing age spots and wrinkles). This one is moisturizing so it can be used alone or if you're dry you can apply moisturizer first. I also like the new SPF 15 from this brand, it's a chemical sunscreen and it offers even better UVA protection.

La Roche Posay Anthelios SX 15 Moisturizing Cream
Anthelios SX is perfect if you tend to have dry skin, and it's super convenient to have a built-in moisturizer so a great option for men or busy moms or professionals. Very good UVA protection (see above).

Bioderma Photoderm MAX Lait SPF 50+
Bioderma is the gold standard for UVA protection. If you are prone to brown spots this one will work like nothing else. It's great age prevention, but the texture is not as pleasant (sticky, heavy) for everyday use.




If you have any questions regarding sunscreen, I will do my best to help you sort it all out.

Next up: Antioxidants! I love them, and I think everyone should use a topical antioxidant product. Antioxidants neutralize free radical damage caused by the sun & environment, and protect against premature aging. What does that mean, you ask? The sun and other environmental aggressors can reprogram the DNA in your dermis, kind of like a computer virus. Antioxidants are sort of like antivirus software.

There are lots of antioxidant options and some work better than others, especially when we're talking topical. My favorites are Vitamin C (l-ascorbic acid) which is a-freaking-mazing and Coffeeberry extract which is less temperamental and has a better shelf life. There are plenty of other options out there, but in my experience these ones yield the best results when used topically. It's a fantastic idea to take an oral antioxidant supplement, too (no, your morning coffee doesn't count). I'll name off my favorite products in both topical and oral formulas...

Topical antioxidant products:
PSF Pure Skin Formulations Vitamin C Serum
One thing about Vitamin C serums, the ones that work are painfully expensive. At $46 this one is affordable and effective.
Garden of Wisdom Summer Serum
A light-textured and very concentrated Coffeeberry serum. I use this one all year long.
IS Clinical Pro Heal Serum
Serious treatment for cystic acne, redness, rosacea, scarring, inflamed skin, and aging. If you want results for just about any skin condition, here it is folks... Results in a bottle.

Oral Antioxidant products:
Jarrow Antioxidant Optimizer
This blends all of my favorite antioxidants, and it's affordable. It's a staple in my medicine cabinet.
New Chapter Supercritical Omega 7
My favorite oil, Sea Buckthorn, stars in this oil-soluble omega fatty acid supplement that helps repair skin from the inside out.

Trust me, I have plenty of other favorites to tell you about... But that should keep you busy for a while!