Aging + Inflammation

As an esthetician, I've always known that when a client comes in with rosacea or seriously inflamed skin and wants to focus on anti-aging, the best way to target signs of aging is to target the inflammation. First of all, the inflammation can't be ignored. No amount of anti-aging peptides or acids or retinoids provide any kind of results on inflamed skin until the inflammation is resolved. Inflamed skin can't tolerate any active ingredients that are too strong, too stimulating, or too exfoliating. I treat (and respect) the inflammation first and foremost in the treatment room, and I always recommend products that are specifically appropriate for sensitive skin for home care.

Inflammation, according to an article I recently read,  is the body's response to a perceived threat. It throws the body into attack mode, as if it were trying to protect against, say, a bacterial infection... Even if the culprit is, say,  cigarette smoke or sunlight (UV rays). The body can't win the fight because it's fighting against a trigger which doesn't fight fair (it doesn't behave like an infection, it's usual sparring buddy).

When the inflammatory response has begun, for whatever reason, it doesn't stop. Inflammation is cyclical and self perpetuating, and this "attack mode" is indiscriminate, causing serious tissue damage. Inflammation decreases ATP which is the main energy source of your cells, so your cells don't work as well or as quickly. As it's decreasing the energy source of your cells, it's increasing oxidative stress which causes aging. If we can control inflammation in the skin,  we can help control signs of aging.

Here's what you can do:

Oral antioxidant supplements are very helpful, but rarely are effective for the skin. Still, I want everyone to take an antioxidant supplement regularly. Two of the great ways to incorporate antioxidants into your diet are to drink more green tea, and to eat more turmeric (an ingredient of traditional yellow curry). If you prefer a tablet or capsule, try Garden of Life Vitamin Code Raw Antioxidants which is a great multivitamin with antioxidants.

When you're trying to affect change on the skin, there really is no better way than to use potent products topically. With inflamed skin, it's best policy to use products designed to be used on sensitive skin and not try to go for the "strongest thing out there". You'll have better results if you keep in mind that we're trying to calm the skin, not overload it. Hylunia Healing and Restoring Cream is specifically for very sensitive skin, used with iS Clinical Pro Heal Serum Advance + you can effectively treat aging and inflammation in one go, without overstimulating the skin.

Come see me at re:surface skin for a re:covery facial to help calm inflammation and heal tissue damage from inflammation. You can pick up the Hylunia cream and the iS Clinical serum while you're here!
www.resurfaceskin.com

Current love affairs...

1. Osea Cleansing Mudd
This is a wonder-cleanser. The minty tingle is verging on painful, just the way a masochistic esthetician like me prefers my tingle (minty or otherwise). It foams very very mildly, looks like mud from some secret cave in Sedona, and has an almost gel-like consistency from the insanely high concentration of red algae (which gives it that seaweed-silky texture). I like to use it in the shower so the steam can activate the minty-ness and I generally leave it on for a few minutes as kind of a mini-mask. I have very sensitive skin, and although I find it invigorating I never experience irritation from this beloved product. I use it about twice a week, it's all about decongesting and clarifying and brightening.


2. Hylunia Healing and Restoring Cream
This is the most soothing, calming cream I've ever had the pleasure of falling in love with. Recently I gave myself a 55% Lactic Acid chemical peel with a salicylic/lactic prep, and my skin was peeling so much I felt like I was moulting. I slathered this cream on, at first it stung a bit because my skin was so raw (masochist, right?) but I just layered it on and when it absorbed I layered on another coat. After only a few hours it was in much better shape, and a few days later, I'm almost back to normal. It's really a miracle. If you're using a prescription retinoid, this needs to be part of your night time routine. It's meant as a body cream so it comes in a huge tube and retails for only $30! I think it's an amazing night cream for dry, sensitized skin.

3. iS Clinical Super Serum Advance+
Whoa. I thought SkinCeuticals made some awesome vitamin C products... Until I met this bottle of bliss. This doesn't sting like the SkinCeuticals, it doesn't smell as much like a hot dog stand in summer, and it
works BETTER. I mean like way, way better. I can't live without my vitamin C serum, and now I can't live without this stuff. My skin is calmer, more even, firmer, smoother, and younger looking.

http://www.resurfaceskin.com/