Aging + Inflammation

As an esthetician, I've always known that when a client comes in with rosacea or seriously inflamed skin and wants to focus on anti-aging, the best way to target signs of aging is to target the inflammation. First of all, the inflammation can't be ignored. No amount of anti-aging peptides or acids or retinoids provide any kind of results on inflamed skin until the inflammation is resolved. Inflamed skin can't tolerate any active ingredients that are too strong, too stimulating, or too exfoliating. I treat (and respect) the inflammation first and foremost in the treatment room, and I always recommend products that are specifically appropriate for sensitive skin for home care.

Inflammation, according to an article I recently read,  is the body's response to a perceived threat. It throws the body into attack mode, as if it were trying to protect against, say, a bacterial infection... Even if the culprit is, say,  cigarette smoke or sunlight (UV rays). The body can't win the fight because it's fighting against a trigger which doesn't fight fair (it doesn't behave like an infection, it's usual sparring buddy).

When the inflammatory response has begun, for whatever reason, it doesn't stop. Inflammation is cyclical and self perpetuating, and this "attack mode" is indiscriminate, causing serious tissue damage. Inflammation decreases ATP which is the main energy source of your cells, so your cells don't work as well or as quickly. As it's decreasing the energy source of your cells, it's increasing oxidative stress which causes aging. If we can control inflammation in the skin,  we can help control signs of aging.

Here's what you can do:

Oral antioxidant supplements are very helpful, but rarely are effective for the skin. Still, I want everyone to take an antioxidant supplement regularly. Two of the great ways to incorporate antioxidants into your diet are to drink more green tea, and to eat more turmeric (an ingredient of traditional yellow curry). If you prefer a tablet or capsule, try Garden of Life Vitamin Code Raw Antioxidants which is a great multivitamin with antioxidants.

When you're trying to affect change on the skin, there really is no better way than to use potent products topically. With inflamed skin, it's best policy to use products designed to be used on sensitive skin and not try to go for the "strongest thing out there". You'll have better results if you keep in mind that we're trying to calm the skin, not overload it. Hylunia Healing and Restoring Cream is specifically for very sensitive skin, used with iS Clinical Pro Heal Serum Advance + you can effectively treat aging and inflammation in one go, without overstimulating the skin.

Come see me at re:surface skin for a re:covery facial to help calm inflammation and heal tissue damage from inflammation. You can pick up the Hylunia cream and the iS Clinical serum while you're here!
www.resurfaceskin.com

Got breakouts? Developing an effective daily regimen for acne

I was going to continue my focus on inflammation, but acne is a complex condition and it deserves a multi-faceted plan of attack. As I said in my last post, there are different grades of acne, different grades will respond to different products and types of treatment. I'm going to throw some recommendations out there and explain how they work, and let you choose. Some experimentation may be required to find the products that give the best results for your skin, but I've taken out most of the guesswork. I'm happy to answer questions, if you have any
                                                             
Cleansers:

SkinCeuticals Clarifying Cleanser- This cleanser exfoliates, preventing buildup of dead skin cells and controlling clogged pores. I find that it works best on blackheads and small, non-inflamed bumps (that's a technical term, right?).

Ilike Grapeseed Cleansing Milk- A milky, oil-based cleanser to help dissolve oil & makeup, with active ingredients that decrease inflammation & redness.

Osea Ocean Cleanser- Truly my favorite cleanser EVER. It gets off every trace of oil & makeup, and leaves skin super soft and comfortable. A great daily cleanser for all acne situations.

SkinScript Glycolic Cleanser- This is a turbocharged AHA cleanser, at 17% glycolic acid it's more like a peel than a cleanser. Best for grades 3 & 4. You'll need a separate makeup remover because this sucker is way too strong to use around the eyes. I'd suggest alternating this cleanser with the Ilike Grapeseed or Osea Ocean Cleanser, so as not to over-exfoliate. It's always important to give your skin time to rest & rebuild itself.

Epicuren Medicated Acne Cleanser- Once again, Epicuren created a product that I absolutely adore. One of my all time favorites for acne, it's gentle but effective. Mildly exfoliating, with the silkiest texture.


Toners:

True Clarifying Tonic- This sometimes doubles as my night time cleanser when I'm feeling particularly lazy. It's great for swiping off sweat ^& grime after the gym if you don't have time for a shower right away. It contains calming ingredients and tea tree to prevent bacteria.

Avene Thermal Spring Water Spray- For those of you that just don't "get" toner, this is your thing. A super easy spray that calms & heals the skin. Just spray it on and you're good to go.

GM Collin Deep Cleansing Solution- Sort of a hybrid between a cleanser & a toner. This contains an active ingredient that is similar to Benzoyl Peroxide (which is very effective) without being harmful. Put it on after cleansing, leave it on for a minute & rinse.

                     
Leave on treatments:

True Purifying Therapeutic Mask- Put a thick layer of this mask on the spot at night before bed and you will wake up with a much smaller, more manageable pimple.

Calendula CO2- I like to put this on all over my face at night to calm inflammation. It is BRIGHT orange so just use a tiny bit, and don't use your best sheets... Cause they will get stained. Usually I'll put a thin layer on, then use a cool compress to remove the excess. If your breakouts are grade 3 or 4, throbbing & inflamed, this is the best thing ever. 

Nelson's Acne Gel- A tiny bit of this on the spot during the day= perfect treatment for inflamed acne to keep it under control. Also nice around the jawline as a zone-treatment for hormonal acne.

Diacneal- And now enter the big guns. This is the best, strongest over-the-counter acne treatment I've ever tried. It's no joke. Very strong retinaldehyde & AHA treatment. A little goes a long way. Use it at night, 4-6 nights per week all over to treat stubborn grade 3 & 4 acne.

Tazorac (prescription, discuss with your dermatologist before using)- Now here's the thing about Tazorac: be prepared to peel like a molting snake. Yes. For weeks. Use it at night only, always slather on a rich moisturizer first and apply a little Tazorac on top (avoid eyes & lips), and skip a night or two a week to give your skin breathing time. During your molting period you'll want to carry a tube of moisturizer with you and apply it several times per day. You'll need this stuff under your moisturizer in the day time, too.


IS Clinical Pro Heal Advance + Serum- Use this every morning under your moisturizer to help prevent inflammation and breakouts, and treat acne scarring. This serum is god damn amazing.


Moisture & SPF:

Osea Atmosphere Protection Cream- My favorite all-around moisturizer of all time. Super light, super gentle, just awesome.

SkinCeuticals Sheer Physical UV Defense SPF 50- A mineral-based light fluid sunscreen. 

Somme Double Defense- A quick-absorbing, nice light textured combo moisturizer + SPF.

Other good stuff:

Osea Red Algae Mask- Use it a few times a week to decongest & detoxify clogged pores and breakout prone skin.

Astara Golden Flame Mask- Use it overnight once a week to calm & soothe irritated and inflamed skin. It's very hydrating and healing.

Hepar Sulphuris Calcareum- Homeopathy works. This stuff is a total godsend for inflammatory acne conditions. Just take a few sugar pellets under your tongue, sit back and watch the magic happen.