Got breakouts? Developing an effective daily regimen for acne

I was going to continue my focus on inflammation, but acne is a complex condition and it deserves a multi-faceted plan of attack. As I said in my last post, there are different grades of acne, different grades will respond to different products and types of treatment. I'm going to throw some recommendations out there and explain how they work, and let you choose. Some experimentation may be required to find the products that give the best results for your skin, but I've taken out most of the guesswork. I'm happy to answer questions, if you have any
                                                             
Cleansers:

SkinCeuticals Clarifying Cleanser- This cleanser exfoliates, preventing buildup of dead skin cells and controlling clogged pores. I find that it works best on blackheads and small, non-inflamed bumps (that's a technical term, right?).

Ilike Grapeseed Cleansing Milk- A milky, oil-based cleanser to help dissolve oil & makeup, with active ingredients that decrease inflammation & redness.

Osea Ocean Cleanser- Truly my favorite cleanser EVER. It gets off every trace of oil & makeup, and leaves skin super soft and comfortable. A great daily cleanser for all acne situations.

SkinScript Glycolic Cleanser- This is a turbocharged AHA cleanser, at 17% glycolic acid it's more like a peel than a cleanser. Best for grades 3 & 4. You'll need a separate makeup remover because this sucker is way too strong to use around the eyes. I'd suggest alternating this cleanser with the Ilike Grapeseed or Osea Ocean Cleanser, so as not to over-exfoliate. It's always important to give your skin time to rest & rebuild itself.

Epicuren Medicated Acne Cleanser- Once again, Epicuren created a product that I absolutely adore. One of my all time favorites for acne, it's gentle but effective. Mildly exfoliating, with the silkiest texture.


Toners:

True Clarifying Tonic- This sometimes doubles as my night time cleanser when I'm feeling particularly lazy. It's great for swiping off sweat ^& grime after the gym if you don't have time for a shower right away. It contains calming ingredients and tea tree to prevent bacteria.

Avene Thermal Spring Water Spray- For those of you that just don't "get" toner, this is your thing. A super easy spray that calms & heals the skin. Just spray it on and you're good to go.

GM Collin Deep Cleansing Solution- Sort of a hybrid between a cleanser & a toner. This contains an active ingredient that is similar to Benzoyl Peroxide (which is very effective) without being harmful. Put it on after cleansing, leave it on for a minute & rinse.

                     
Leave on treatments:

True Purifying Therapeutic Mask- Put a thick layer of this mask on the spot at night before bed and you will wake up with a much smaller, more manageable pimple.

Calendula CO2- I like to put this on all over my face at night to calm inflammation. It is BRIGHT orange so just use a tiny bit, and don't use your best sheets... Cause they will get stained. Usually I'll put a thin layer on, then use a cool compress to remove the excess. If your breakouts are grade 3 or 4, throbbing & inflamed, this is the best thing ever. 

Nelson's Acne Gel- A tiny bit of this on the spot during the day= perfect treatment for inflamed acne to keep it under control. Also nice around the jawline as a zone-treatment for hormonal acne.

Diacneal- And now enter the big guns. This is the best, strongest over-the-counter acne treatment I've ever tried. It's no joke. Very strong retinaldehyde & AHA treatment. A little goes a long way. Use it at night, 4-6 nights per week all over to treat stubborn grade 3 & 4 acne.

Tazorac (prescription, discuss with your dermatologist before using)- Now here's the thing about Tazorac: be prepared to peel like a molting snake. Yes. For weeks. Use it at night only, always slather on a rich moisturizer first and apply a little Tazorac on top (avoid eyes & lips), and skip a night or two a week to give your skin breathing time. During your molting period you'll want to carry a tube of moisturizer with you and apply it several times per day. You'll need this stuff under your moisturizer in the day time, too.


IS Clinical Pro Heal Advance + Serum- Use this every morning under your moisturizer to help prevent inflammation and breakouts, and treat acne scarring. This serum is god damn amazing.


Moisture & SPF:

Osea Atmosphere Protection Cream- My favorite all-around moisturizer of all time. Super light, super gentle, just awesome.

SkinCeuticals Sheer Physical UV Defense SPF 50- A mineral-based light fluid sunscreen. 

Somme Double Defense- A quick-absorbing, nice light textured combo moisturizer + SPF.

Other good stuff:

Osea Red Algae Mask- Use it a few times a week to decongest & detoxify clogged pores and breakout prone skin.

Astara Golden Flame Mask- Use it overnight once a week to calm & soothe irritated and inflamed skin. It's very hydrating and healing.

Hepar Sulphuris Calcareum- Homeopathy works. This stuff is a total godsend for inflammatory acne conditions. Just take a few sugar pellets under your tongue, sit back and watch the magic happen.

Raindrops on roses and whiskers on kittens...

I thought I'd post a few of my favorite things. Every time I think of those words I hear Julie Andrews singing that song and picture her twirling around on top of an alp. So anyone that knows me might be thinking "What does cheese have to do with skin care?" but don't worry I won't wax poetic over the wonders of cheese... This is a skin blog for goodness sake. No, these favorites are all skin-related, I promise I'll stay on topic.

Sunscreen. I have so many clients ask me "Do you wear sunscreen every day?". Honestly, people! This kind of talk boggles the mind. Of course I wear sunscreen every day. Sun is the main cause of aging, not to mention skin cancer. Skin cancer is just like any other cancer... I hate to break it to you, but it can be deadly.

The world of sunscreen can be a very confusing place.
There are 2 types of sun protection: physical and chemical. Physical sun blocks come from zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. These work by providing a physical barrier against UV rays, like a mirror they reflect the sun's rays (block). Chemical sunscreens absorb UV rays before they reach the skin (screen).

There are pros and cons to either type of sunscreen, physical blocks tend to be thick and heavy, with a whitish cast on the skin. Chemical blocks tend to smell funky, have an sticky or oily feel, and sorting out which ingredients work can be seriously frustrating. So here are a few of my favorite sunscreens for your enjoyment.

Epicuren Discovery Zinc Oxide SPF 20
The Epicuren is my absolute favorite of all time, hands down. I use it as my day cream in humid climates or during the summer, otherwise I apply a day cream first and apply the Epicuren on top. The texture is very light, the formula is not sticky or greasy and it smells very faintly like rose. This is a strictly physical sunblock.

SkinCeuticals Daily Sun Defense SPF 20
Another great one, blending chemical & physical to provide a great level of UVA protection (essential for preventing age spots and wrinkles). This one is moisturizing so it can be used alone or if you're dry you can apply moisturizer first. I also like the new SPF 15 from this brand, it's a chemical sunscreen and it offers even better UVA protection.

La Roche Posay Anthelios SX 15 Moisturizing Cream
Anthelios SX is perfect if you tend to have dry skin, and it's super convenient to have a built-in moisturizer so a great option for men or busy moms or professionals. Very good UVA protection (see above).

Bioderma Photoderm MAX Lait SPF 50+
Bioderma is the gold standard for UVA protection. If you are prone to brown spots this one will work like nothing else. It's great age prevention, but the texture is not as pleasant (sticky, heavy) for everyday use.




If you have any questions regarding sunscreen, I will do my best to help you sort it all out.

Next up: Antioxidants! I love them, and I think everyone should use a topical antioxidant product. Antioxidants neutralize free radical damage caused by the sun & environment, and protect against premature aging. What does that mean, you ask? The sun and other environmental aggressors can reprogram the DNA in your dermis, kind of like a computer virus. Antioxidants are sort of like antivirus software.

There are lots of antioxidant options and some work better than others, especially when we're talking topical. My favorites are Vitamin C (l-ascorbic acid) which is a-freaking-mazing and Coffeeberry extract which is less temperamental and has a better shelf life. There are plenty of other options out there, but in my experience these ones yield the best results when used topically. It's a fantastic idea to take an oral antioxidant supplement, too (no, your morning coffee doesn't count). I'll name off my favorite products in both topical and oral formulas...

Topical antioxidant products:
PSF Pure Skin Formulations Vitamin C Serum
One thing about Vitamin C serums, the ones that work are painfully expensive. At $46 this one is affordable and effective.
Garden of Wisdom Summer Serum
A light-textured and very concentrated Coffeeberry serum. I use this one all year long.
IS Clinical Pro Heal Serum
Serious treatment for cystic acne, redness, rosacea, scarring, inflamed skin, and aging. If you want results for just about any skin condition, here it is folks... Results in a bottle.

Oral Antioxidant products:
Jarrow Antioxidant Optimizer
This blends all of my favorite antioxidants, and it's affordable. It's a staple in my medicine cabinet.
New Chapter Supercritical Omega 7
My favorite oil, Sea Buckthorn, stars in this oil-soluble omega fatty acid supplement that helps repair skin from the inside out.

Trust me, I have plenty of other favorites to tell you about... But that should keep you busy for a while!