The body electric

Oh the body, it's such a wonderful landscape of cashmere and silk, hills and valleys... and sometimes forests of hair and expanses of desert-like dryness. Let's talk about the body. It's far more neglected than the face, and yet it seems to get by okay for the most part. A few reasons that the body seems to generally hold up better than the face:

The muscles of the face are attached differently. The muscles of the face attach directly to the skin instead of to bone. That allows us to make facial expressions, which is a very important part of basic human communication. Eventually as we age, the muscles tugging on the skin of the face causes expression lines. It's part of what makes Botox so appealing, because it inhibits the muscle contractions that cause expression lines... But also the expressions that come with the muscle contraction. Which is why all of Hollywood looks like the Mona Lisa. Lineless and serene, but also boring and vacant.

Okay... I'm off topic already. We're talking about the body. So the body muscles are much larger, and they're designed to do more than just communicate an expression, they are for stabilizing and moving the body. While I'm on the topic of muscles I'll touch on what to do when they get sore. If you have muscle soreness from working out, try an epsom salt bath. Don't be shy, put at least a cup or two of epsom salts into the tub with you. When you're done, apply a layer of arnica-infused oil to the sore area to disperse the lactic acid and fluid buildup. Both of these things are extremely helpful when it comes to muscle soreness. When your muscles are sore from strain, it's best to do the RICE protocol and apply arnica-infused oil as needed.

Two last tips on muscles in general: Stretch! Take a yoga class, a pilates class, a barre class, or just stretch on your lunch break or before bed. If you don't, you will slowly but surely lose your ability to stretch and then you run the risk of injury. Last but not least, get a massage! Yes, that's a direct order. You don't need them every week (most people don't) but at least every other month. It's stress relieving, keeps your posture in good shape, detoxifies, and keeps you in a good mood. Find a massage therapist that you like, and be sure to communicate what feels good to you and what doesn't. The more you tell the massage therapist how you feel about the pressure and everything else, the better your chances are of getting your needs met and getting an amazing customized treatment.

So now let's talk about skin. There's a lot to cover here, so I'm going to focus this installment on cleansing & moisturizing...


My all time favorite body cleansers:

Kiehl's Restorative Argan Body Cleansing Oil This is like a cleansing oil for the whole body, and we all know how much I love cleansing oil. This is meant to be applied to wet skin, it's great for shaving and it helps keep ingrowns and bacne at bay with salicylic acid. $27


Aesop Body Cleansing Slab is a super mild soap that smells divine and doesn't have any harsh chemicals in it. $26

LUSH Gumback Express is a body cleansing cream starring mashed bananas and crushed almonds for super hydration and the yummiest real-food smell ever.







Now for my favorite body creams, lotions and oils:


Garden of Life Extra Virgin Coconut Oil is amazing. It sinks right in on damp skin after a shower, leaving a bit of a sheen and a deliciously real, fresh coconut fragrance. It's gentle enough for very sensitive skin, and it doesn't contain any synthetic fragrances or preservatives. It's my go-to summer body moisturizer. It also layers well under a body cream for those with really severe dry, irritated skin.



Hylunia Healing and Restoring Cream is incredibly hydrating, with tons of magically healing and rebuilding Hyaluronic Acid. It works on all skin types, and it's just handy to have around because it clears up irritation and rashes like no other. It doubles as a super cheap and very effective night time anti-wrinkle face cream. 

Osea Undaria Algae Oil is a lightweight powerhouse anti-aging treatment with babassu, sesame, acai, and passionfruit oils. The Undaria algae is full of firming B-vitamins to tighten and tone the skin.


Ecco Bella Vanilla Body Lotion is a very light textured nourishing lotion with  plenty of smoky, mysterious natural vanilla fragrance. It's super sexy, so be careful where you wear it!

Avene Eluage Retinaldehyde-h.a.f. Anti Aging and Restructuring and Moisturizing Cream for Body it's a mouthful, but retinaldehyde will whip your lax, weight-fluctuated or chemotherapy'd skin into tip top shape. Perfect for loose skin, body wrinkles, sun damage, pigmentation, rough texture, and stretch marks.

Ilike Circulation Revitalizing Body Lotion is like my favorite paprika brightening peel... but for the body! Kiss your cellulite goodbye.




Come see me for a head to toe ritual at re:surface skin. www.resurfaceskin.com

Aging + Inflammation

As an esthetician, I've always known that when a client comes in with rosacea or seriously inflamed skin and wants to focus on anti-aging, the best way to target signs of aging is to target the inflammation. First of all, the inflammation can't be ignored. No amount of anti-aging peptides or acids or retinoids provide any kind of results on inflamed skin until the inflammation is resolved. Inflamed skin can't tolerate any active ingredients that are too strong, too stimulating, or too exfoliating. I treat (and respect) the inflammation first and foremost in the treatment room, and I always recommend products that are specifically appropriate for sensitive skin for home care.

Inflammation, according to an article I recently read,  is the body's response to a perceived threat. It throws the body into attack mode, as if it were trying to protect against, say, a bacterial infection... Even if the culprit is, say,  cigarette smoke or sunlight (UV rays). The body can't win the fight because it's fighting against a trigger which doesn't fight fair (it doesn't behave like an infection, it's usual sparring buddy).

When the inflammatory response has begun, for whatever reason, it doesn't stop. Inflammation is cyclical and self perpetuating, and this "attack mode" is indiscriminate, causing serious tissue damage. Inflammation decreases ATP which is the main energy source of your cells, so your cells don't work as well or as quickly. As it's decreasing the energy source of your cells, it's increasing oxidative stress which causes aging. If we can control inflammation in the skin,  we can help control signs of aging.

Here's what you can do:

Oral antioxidant supplements are very helpful, but rarely are effective for the skin. Still, I want everyone to take an antioxidant supplement regularly. Two of the great ways to incorporate antioxidants into your diet are to drink more green tea, and to eat more turmeric (an ingredient of traditional yellow curry). If you prefer a tablet or capsule, try Garden of Life Vitamin Code Raw Antioxidants which is a great multivitamin with antioxidants.

When you're trying to affect change on the skin, there really is no better way than to use potent products topically. With inflamed skin, it's best policy to use products designed to be used on sensitive skin and not try to go for the "strongest thing out there". You'll have better results if you keep in mind that we're trying to calm the skin, not overload it. Hylunia Healing and Restoring Cream is specifically for very sensitive skin, used with iS Clinical Pro Heal Serum Advance + you can effectively treat aging and inflammation in one go, without overstimulating the skin.

Come see me at re:surface skin for a re:covery facial to help calm inflammation and heal tissue damage from inflammation. You can pick up the Hylunia cream and the iS Clinical serum while you're here!
www.resurfaceskin.com

Current love affairs...

1. Osea Cleansing Mudd
This is a wonder-cleanser. The minty tingle is verging on painful, just the way a masochistic esthetician like me prefers my tingle (minty or otherwise). It foams very very mildly, looks like mud from some secret cave in Sedona, and has an almost gel-like consistency from the insanely high concentration of red algae (which gives it that seaweed-silky texture). I like to use it in the shower so the steam can activate the minty-ness and I generally leave it on for a few minutes as kind of a mini-mask. I have very sensitive skin, and although I find it invigorating I never experience irritation from this beloved product. I use it about twice a week, it's all about decongesting and clarifying and brightening.


2. Hylunia Healing and Restoring Cream
This is the most soothing, calming cream I've ever had the pleasure of falling in love with. Recently I gave myself a 55% Lactic Acid chemical peel with a salicylic/lactic prep, and my skin was peeling so much I felt like I was moulting. I slathered this cream on, at first it stung a bit because my skin was so raw (masochist, right?) but I just layered it on and when it absorbed I layered on another coat. After only a few hours it was in much better shape, and a few days later, I'm almost back to normal. It's really a miracle. If you're using a prescription retinoid, this needs to be part of your night time routine. It's meant as a body cream so it comes in a huge tube and retails for only $30! I think it's an amazing night cream for dry, sensitized skin.

3. iS Clinical Super Serum Advance+
Whoa. I thought SkinCeuticals made some awesome vitamin C products... Until I met this bottle of bliss. This doesn't sting like the SkinCeuticals, it doesn't smell as much like a hot dog stand in summer, and it
works BETTER. I mean like way, way better. I can't live without my vitamin C serum, and now I can't live without this stuff. My skin is calmer, more even, firmer, smoother, and younger looking.

http://www.resurfaceskin.com/

Sign this!

Do you like to support small businesses with passionate owners that eat, sleep, and breathe skin? They will be out of business if this law passes. Please sign this petition and support your own right to choose.
http://www.thepetitionsite.com/1/oppose-hr-5786-safe-cosmetics-act-of-2010/

Summer summer summertime, time to sit back and unwind.

The sun is shining, the grill is hot, the mosquitos are biting, and you're finally wearing shorts (even though your legs are as white as the freshly driven snow). It's time to go outside and bask in the glorious sunshine. But not too much. Here's how to "sun" responsibly:

1. Wear sunscreen. I bet you saw that one coming, didn't you? Keep it handy for re-application, because a layer of sunscreen doesn't last forever. You'll want to reapply every few hours (more often if you're fair skinned). 

Oily skin: SkinCeuticals Sheer Physical SPF 50

Dry skin: La Roche Posay Anthelios 40 

Acne prone skin: Fallene Face Cotz SPF 40

Super sensitive skin: Blue Lizard Sensitive SPF 30+

Check out this website, it rates sunscreen in a very helpful way, sorting by toxicity and level of UV protection.

2. Drink plenty of water. This may sound basic, but somehow water is the last thing most people want to drink on a nice hot day. Drink the damn water, people. It's important. Not only for proper functioning of your internal organs, but also because it makes your skin look all smooth & tight.

3. Ignore the old school talk about getting sun before 11 and after 3. It's best to get sun in the middle of the day, the longer wavelengths of the morning & afternoon promote malignant melanoma. That said, it's hotter in the middle of the day so limit your overall exposure time, and DON'T YOU DARE FORGET YOUR SPF.

4. Wear sunglasses. Protecting your eyes from the sun is absolutely essential. Make sure your sunglasses have UV protection, otherwise they can do more harm than good.

5. Get a spray tan. If you want to be tan, this is the best way to do it without damaging your skin. I recommend Fantasy Tan, which is what we use at the spa I work at. The color is very natural and the tan lasts longer than other brands. Don't do tanning beds, they only expose you to the most damaging of the UV rays without any of the benefits of real sun exposure. If you want a good bronzer for the face, try Dr. Hauschka Translucent Bronze Concentrate. You can mix it with your moisturizer or apply it to areas like cheekbones, nose, temples, above brows, and chin.

www.resurfaceskin.com

Got breakouts? Developing an effective daily regimen for acne

I was going to continue my focus on inflammation, but acne is a complex condition and it deserves a multi-faceted plan of attack. As I said in my last post, there are different grades of acne, different grades will respond to different products and types of treatment. I'm going to throw some recommendations out there and explain how they work, and let you choose. Some experimentation may be required to find the products that give the best results for your skin, but I've taken out most of the guesswork. I'm happy to answer questions, if you have any
                                                             
Cleansers:

SkinCeuticals Clarifying Cleanser- This cleanser exfoliates, preventing buildup of dead skin cells and controlling clogged pores. I find that it works best on blackheads and small, non-inflamed bumps (that's a technical term, right?).

Ilike Grapeseed Cleansing Milk- A milky, oil-based cleanser to help dissolve oil & makeup, with active ingredients that decrease inflammation & redness.

Osea Ocean Cleanser- Truly my favorite cleanser EVER. It gets off every trace of oil & makeup, and leaves skin super soft and comfortable. A great daily cleanser for all acne situations.

SkinScript Glycolic Cleanser- This is a turbocharged AHA cleanser, at 17% glycolic acid it's more like a peel than a cleanser. Best for grades 3 & 4. You'll need a separate makeup remover because this sucker is way too strong to use around the eyes. I'd suggest alternating this cleanser with the Ilike Grapeseed or Osea Ocean Cleanser, so as not to over-exfoliate. It's always important to give your skin time to rest & rebuild itself.

Epicuren Medicated Acne Cleanser- Once again, Epicuren created a product that I absolutely adore. One of my all time favorites for acne, it's gentle but effective. Mildly exfoliating, with the silkiest texture.


Toners:

True Clarifying Tonic- This sometimes doubles as my night time cleanser when I'm feeling particularly lazy. It's great for swiping off sweat ^& grime after the gym if you don't have time for a shower right away. It contains calming ingredients and tea tree to prevent bacteria.

Avene Thermal Spring Water Spray- For those of you that just don't "get" toner, this is your thing. A super easy spray that calms & heals the skin. Just spray it on and you're good to go.

GM Collin Deep Cleansing Solution- Sort of a hybrid between a cleanser & a toner. This contains an active ingredient that is similar to Benzoyl Peroxide (which is very effective) without being harmful. Put it on after cleansing, leave it on for a minute & rinse.

                     
Leave on treatments:

True Purifying Therapeutic Mask- Put a thick layer of this mask on the spot at night before bed and you will wake up with a much smaller, more manageable pimple.

Calendula CO2- I like to put this on all over my face at night to calm inflammation. It is BRIGHT orange so just use a tiny bit, and don't use your best sheets... Cause they will get stained. Usually I'll put a thin layer on, then use a cool compress to remove the excess. If your breakouts are grade 3 or 4, throbbing & inflamed, this is the best thing ever. 

Nelson's Acne Gel- A tiny bit of this on the spot during the day= perfect treatment for inflamed acne to keep it under control. Also nice around the jawline as a zone-treatment for hormonal acne.

Diacneal- And now enter the big guns. This is the best, strongest over-the-counter acne treatment I've ever tried. It's no joke. Very strong retinaldehyde & AHA treatment. A little goes a long way. Use it at night, 4-6 nights per week all over to treat stubborn grade 3 & 4 acne.

Tazorac (prescription, discuss with your dermatologist before using)- Now here's the thing about Tazorac: be prepared to peel like a molting snake. Yes. For weeks. Use it at night only, always slather on a rich moisturizer first and apply a little Tazorac on top (avoid eyes & lips), and skip a night or two a week to give your skin breathing time. During your molting period you'll want to carry a tube of moisturizer with you and apply it several times per day. You'll need this stuff under your moisturizer in the day time, too.


IS Clinical Pro Heal Advance + Serum- Use this every morning under your moisturizer to help prevent inflammation and breakouts, and treat acne scarring. This serum is god damn amazing.


Moisture & SPF:

Osea Atmosphere Protection Cream- My favorite all-around moisturizer of all time. Super light, super gentle, just awesome.

SkinCeuticals Sheer Physical UV Defense SPF 50- A mineral-based light fluid sunscreen. 

Somme Double Defense- A quick-absorbing, nice light textured combo moisturizer + SPF.

Other good stuff:

Osea Red Algae Mask- Use it a few times a week to decongest & detoxify clogged pores and breakout prone skin.

Astara Golden Flame Mask- Use it overnight once a week to calm & soothe irritated and inflamed skin. It's very hydrating and healing.

Hepar Sulphuris Calcareum- Homeopathy works. This stuff is a total godsend for inflammatory acne conditions. Just take a few sugar pellets under your tongue, sit back and watch the magic happen.

Salicylic Acid: The life and times of a Beta Hydroxy Acid

Okay, so it's not a steamy novel starring Salicylic Acid. It's just a little homage to this little wunderkind of an exfoliant. The only hydroxy acid that is FDA approved as an acne treatment, salicylic acid is pretty amazing. It's the most ubiquitous over-the-counter acne treatment on the shelves aside from benzoyl peroxide. Salicylic acid is fat soluble, unlike the AHAs we discussed in the last post (which are water soluble). As you might imagine, this means salicylic acid works amazingly well for clogged pores (which are clogged with oil). If you're wondering why you might use this BHA instead of one of the AHAs, I think it works best for ingrown hairs, acne maintenance treatment, enlarged pores, and oily skin with a rough texture.


If you want to use it as an ingrown hair treatment try Stridex Maximum Strength pads or PFB Vanish which is my favey favorite thing of all time- my personal cure for brazilian waxing woes- in a super easy roll on. For acne maintenance I think Paula's Choice 2% BHA liquid works best- applied at night. If you want a BHA cleanser I adore the DDF Blemish Foaming Cleanser: it works without overdrying.